arctic char. fish jumping out of the water in groups of dozens. none are hungry enough to be attracted by our metal bait.

a local fisherman comes over and gives us two fish. "i will catch more," he says.

"how do you know? do you want money?"

"no money."

other than that, he does not seem to speak much english.

we watch him fish. he is catching a fish every 10 minutes.

later we find out that he was snagging.

*

at home i clean the fish. at first i think -- this is not a big deal. i cut the head off, then the tail. i slice its stomach. i've never done this before. when i take the second fish out of the bag i suddenly shudder, scream, and drop it into the sink.

*

arctic char tastes delicious.




people fishing on the Sylvia Grinnell river